Goulotte Chéré

Goulotte Chéré

Together with a friend from Munich I climbed my first alpine couloir last weekend, the so called Goulotte Chéré (D-, 4, 250 m), at the Triangle du Tacul in Chamonix:

Goulotte Chéré at the Triangle du Tacul

The conditions are very dry at the moment, but still perfect and the alpine ice felt much easier to climb than  waterfall ice in a comparable grade (WI 4). Two other parties were following us and, therefore, after 6 pitches we abseiled from the top of the couloir in order to avoid any stonefall.

The Goulotte Chéré  is a great and relatively easy climb and now I am really motivated to climb more and also longer couloirs in the future.

Goulotte Chéré in summary:

Location Chamonix, Triangle du Tacul, ~3700 m
Character alpine ice couloir
Popularity high
Difficulty overall: D-, ice: 4, up to 85°, 250 m, 5-6 pitches
Conditions very dry but still good conditions, enough ice
Protection 2 bolds on each abseil point, no bolds in between, some slings might be present
Material 2x 50m rope (60m preferable), a few ice screws, a few mid-size friends
Remarks After ~5 pitches a top out to the Triangle du Tacul is possible, but due to the high danger of knocking off stones, no other parties should be below. It is therefore recommended to abseil at the top of the couloir.

Approach to the Ref. Cosmique

Goulotte Chéré

Skiing Vallée Blanche